Saturday, June 21, 2014

Baah Haaabaah! (How Mainelanders say Bar Harbor!)

Note to readers:  We have been “off the grid” for 3 days in Bar Harbor. We expected no internet, but our cell phones were useless too so the Mi Fi wouldn't even work)   I wrote this post twice on the way to Oxbow out of Portland (see below) but the bumpy road got the better of my computer and somehow it was deleted!!  (So now I am better at saving after each paragraph!!).. .There will be 2 posts, this one and Portland)
The Ocean at Bar Harbor

Our drive up to Bar Harbor took a good bit longer than “Myrtle”, in the Nuvi predicted but it was laced with good beer, good food, friends and fun.  A friend of Sam’s who is on the board of Allagash, told Keith that we should stop by Oxbow brewery on the way up to the National Park.  So Keith and Dave were on a mission!  Duly putting in the coordinates we set off on the scenic drive up the coast.  At some point Myrtle veered us inland on farm-to-market roads and Bessy bumped and “grinded” along.  We were “following” the Wassums but they got ahead of us and took a “wrong” turn and we both arrived at Oxbow at the same time but from different directions!  It was a clear that Bessy and Bert would not fit going up the winding dirt driveway and turning them around would never happen, so we went on down the road to find a place to disconnect.  A large drive by an electrical substation provided a spot about ½ mile away, but Bert’s “butt” was hanging out in the middle of the road, so Deb took off the Brake Buddy while Dave disconnected Bert in record time and Deb watched for cars.  If disconnecting had been a “sport” like NASCAR  pit-crew teams, we would have won it!





Dave at Oxbow

Oxbow did not disappoint.  Keith learned that both of the owners had gone to college with his new son in law, Sam.  Which is really amazing since we are in Nowhere, Maine and they went to a Lenoir Rhyne sized college in Colorado!  They had been featured in Beer Advocate magazine this month and their beer was unique and very flavorable.  Their Farm House Ale was low alcohol without being bland and their IPA was flavored with a new hop, Acacia.  They were using Czeck and Belgium brewing methods with an American twist.

Deb and Bert then followed David to an intersection where they could reconnect without endangering other motorists, and it was on to Belfast for Marshall Wharf Brewery which was on the wharf in a very quaint ship building town.  We got there right before closing, but when the brewery closed, the pub opened and after a seafood dinner in town, Dave and Keith later returned to taste the missing brews. Diane later commented that “they could sure use Emily up here,” The waitresses in Boston were surly and ours could not answer any of our questions.  She did go get her supervisor to tell us what the scallops and fish were stuffed with (we passed when she said Ritz crackers and crab, with little assurance that there was more crab than crackers!) The beers were very good.  They each bought a 4 pack of“Cain’t Dog Double IPA” and they had a barley wine that was worth the return to the pub.  Meanwhile Deb and Diane checked out a few of the galleries in town and deemed the town worthy of a return stop for D2 on the way home!

We arrived at the campground about 7:45 and barely got set up before dark.  Of course setting up with no hook ups is fairly simple, though the sloping but wooded site presented Dave with a few leveling challenges. (And later the girl next door had us and our friends as an audience as she rocked back and forth on her leveling blocks. We talked to her the next morning and found out she was on a solo trip to Maryland for her 50th birthday to pick up her Mom, in her 80’s and take her back to Colorado for a bucket list road trip!)
We drove into town and met the Kuklentz, Browns, and Wassums at their B&B’s (literally across the street from each other) and realized that our group now numbered 8… perfect for 2 tables of bridge.  The men formed a group and had a rowdy game, while none of the women had exciting cards and we had a hard time staying awake until the guys finished their “never-ending” rubber.

Thursday the Browns and Kuklentz were our guides as they had been in Bar Harbor a day.  They came to the campground and we went up to Cadillac Mt.  Keith and Diane were up for a more challenging hike and decided to take the 4 mile hike down.  It turned into much more than that when they began blazing a new trail down the mountain.  Meanwhile we walked a more level path to Sand Beach and we only got ½ way up to Thunder Hole before it was time to go meet the mountain hikers.  Between our wrong turns and their blazing trails we were able to meet them within ¼ mile of the trailhead.  The Browns and Kuklentz went on to Thunder Hole and pronounced it more booming than the day before.
View from top of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park

Dan and Betsy Brown

You want to do what?

It was windy


We took couple's pictures and of course Keith was missing... we think that's him on the rock!

But they found each other!

Everywhere you look there's another post card scene

Then it was a trek (by caravan!) across the peninsula to Bass Harbor and Thurstons, the Kuklentz and Brown new favorite restaurant, where Dave, Keith and Diane ate 2 pound lobsters.  We also enjoyed watching the lobster boats come in with their catch and talking to the locals.  We found out that one could figure the lobster’s age at about 7 years per pound.  So Dave, Keith and Diane were eating teenagers!!  You know there were times when the kids were teens I was tempted to boil them and eat them!! LOL
Bass Harbor at Thurstons

We;re eating up here!

Lobster bouys at Thurstons

We all gathered back at our campsite for hamburgers and a store bought carrot birthday cake for Dan along with Maine’s “famous” whoopee pies.  Pat has nothing to fear from Hannaford’s recipe for carrot cake, however because Pat has never US whoopee pies, we can’t judge the “famous” whoopee pies.  Of course our judgement was a little clouded from the numerous bottles of wine and beer consumed around Dave’s glorious campfire.  We said goodbye to the Browns and Kuklentz as they were leaving early the next morning.  It sure has been great camping with friends, even if they are in B&B’s.

Friday dawned a little cloudy and chilly.  Dave and I found our way to the ocean from our campsite so we can now claim this as one more site “on” the water! Keith and Diane arrived about 10 and we finished our excursion to Thunder Hole and walked from there to Otter Cliff.  Returning to our campsite, we dove into Keith’s requested watermelon from last night. (between the whoopee pies and cake there was no room for watermelon!)  We said good bye to them about 1 pm so that they  could potentially get to Boston in Allie’s car before dark.  Now we were alone for our trek South.  We had hoped to segway on the carriage trails, but the weather while not rainy, was damp and windy.  We are completely off the grid here with no cell or internet service, so we went into town for a “fix” and to give Emily some editing advice.
Thunder Hole - the tide come into this crevice and pops a sound as it rushes out.


Later we had another of Dave’s glorious campfires and enjoyed the company of our “neighbors” from Wisconsin.  After it became completely dark, we returned to the path down to the ocean and marveled at the bright stars.

Saturday morning we packed Bessy for her south-bound journey and left her in a lot in Bar Harbor while we took one more tour of the National Park.  We got out our segways and took a carriage path around one of the lakes.  Before the park and Depression the Vanderbilts had a summer home in Bar Harbor and had made carriage paths for their guests to enjoy the countryside.  These have been maintained as bike trails in the National Park.  The 1 ½ hour ride was a lot of fun and several bikers stopped and asked us about the segways and we stopped when we met 2 groups of horses to make sure our odd machines didn’t spook them.

Arriving back  in Belfast, Deb shopped the art galleries while Dave sampled a few more beers at Marshall Wharf Brewing.  When Deb joined him we decided that their Barley Wine and oak aged Belgium were the best.  Then we had what MAY be our last lobster dinner at a Lobster Pound called Youngs.  Their Bucket List meal had EVERYTHING on it,,, 2 lobsters, a dozen clams, more than a dozen mussels, oysters and shrimp for $50 (TOTAL for both of us!!)  It was the best yet! 
Harbor at Belfast

This is the tool they use to put the rubber bands on the lobsters!

Only a fraction of the catch of the day!

Too much food!.... but we ate it ALL!!
Yes we did!!

Now to plot our route South.... we're both a little bummed that we are starting the Homeward Bound phase and there's a hole without our friends.

Portland: Good Friends and Good Beer!

Arriving in Portland, we set up camp, and reconnected with Pat and Glenn Kelly.  We had all done the restaurant thing enough in Boston, so they came over to our very nice campsite and we fixed some of Dave’s Famous BBQ and a green salad and fruit and played bridge until the guys could claim a win… lol (not really, they made a baby slam right off the bat!!)

Monday we “did” Portland.  We started the morning with the Kuklentz, Browns, and Kellys at the Audubon park.  The peonies were just about to bloom and the trails were enhanced with terrific sculptures (all for sale… $3500, $12,000!!  And thankfully much too big for our “yard art” piece!!).  We  went down to the wharf area and ate lunch at Joe’s Oysters.  It was definitely a local “joint” and a good choice, though the parking adjoined a “fancy restaurant” and was $5/hr.  Needless to say we moved the cars quickly!!  But expensive parking in Portland, was to become a theme for our stay and searching for cheaper lots and feeding the meters when we found on street parking, became our mantras!   We checked out Shipyard Brewery which had many beers but nothing special.  Then the girls got their time to shop the many chotsky shops and galleries in the waterfront area.   We met up with the Wassams about mid afternoon (the girls were delighted for Diane to join us, now we had an excuse to shop more!) As we were shopping near the waterfront we all sort of regrouped outside of one store and there was a paperbox on the corner.  We heard a phone ringing and Deb looked down and it was a phone on the paperbox that someone had obviously left.  She answered it expecting to hear the owner of the phone trying to locate it.  Instead, it was the owner’s husband who had just gotten home and was looking for his wife.  When Deb told him the phone was in Portland outside a Dog and Cat store, he had no idea his wife had come to Portland.  Deb connected him with one of the sales clerks to make arrangements to retrieve the phone.  We had a good time the rest of the afternoon conjecturing about the woman who had lost her phone and why she was there without her husband’s knowledge. 
This was an owl sculpture attached to the rock!


Then we left the downtown area to caravan to Allagash, one of the “premiere  breweries” in Portland.  Dave and Keith were excited to get there and go on the tour so they led the caravan with gusto and about left a few of us in the dust!!  The beers at Allagash were as good as we remembered and they had grown and built a new tasting room and increased their equipment.  Unfortunately some of our favorite brews were not included in the tasting and though we got to see the barrel room where they age their sour beer, we were not able to taste it either.  You have to just “be there” when they release it and it sells out almost immediately.
We ended the day with a great seafood meal at Central Provisions. 

Mission Accomplished!  On Allagash Tour!

The girls on the brewery tour

Tasting at Allagash

Beer Makes for Happy Campers!

Tuesday we met the Browns, Kuklentz and Kellys for breakfast and then we toured the Victoria Mansion down from Keith and Diane’s B&B.  Built during the Civil War by a New Orleans hotelier, it retains over 90% of the original furnishings.  The brown stone from Connecticut was interesting and was simulated on one side at in the reer with stucco to save money.  The Southerners delighted in the portrait of Robert E. Lee.

From there it was a short walk to the Art Museum.  Dan really enjoyed the museum (and he is usually not a big fan!).  The best exhibition was by Richard Estes who painted city scenes in a realistic style so that they almost looked photographic.  His technique of painting reflective scenes from storefront windows and mirrors was fascinating, especially his NYC, Hiroshima, and Italian scenes.  He developed his technique working as a commercial artist in the 60’s.  The permanent collections were small but well done.  Several of us liked the 5 classical marble statues, especially the pearl diver who dies as he comes out of the water.

For lunch we decided to go to Bennie’s Lobster Shack.  It was the true old-time Maine experience.  Keith ordered twin steamed lobsters and we all enjoyed watching him conquer them.  The lady serving us was a hoot, and she gave Keith lessons in cracking and eating a Maine lobster.  This was in contrast to most of the folks we have met.  Mainelanders deserve their quirky Yankee reputation and are very rule bound.  We miss our laid back Southern hospitality where rules tend to be “suggestions.”

After lunch we split into 2 groups and the engineers plus Betsy and Mary Lou visited Bath Iron Works.  Mary Lou’s niece’s husband works there and he was able to arrange a tour.  The guys compared it favorably to the tour we took of Boeing in Everett WA, except the massive iron works were at arm’s length and “up close and personal.”  They saw building in progress on 3 Zumwalt destroyers and 5 Burke class ships. 
Zumwalt Missle Destroyer (from the internet - no pix were allowed)

Meanwhile, Deb, Diane, and Pat “shopped til they dropped” in Freeport at the LL Bean outlets.  As we were leaving with our shirts, sweaters and shoes, we learned about a “whoopee pie” store that had beat Bobby Flay in a “throwdown”.  Unfortunately, we had shopped too long and they were closed so we had to settle for ice cream at a custard shop.

That night the Wassums and Kelly’s “treated” Deb and Dave to  supper because they had earlier bought theater tickets for everyone back in Charlotte.  After supper Deb and Dave went back to the RV (grocery shopping along the way) and prepared Bessy for dry camping in Bar Harbor and Arcadia National Park.
Wednesday morning we finished packing Bessy, got her belly full of water and her waste tanks empty and headed out to the Portland Headlight Lighthouse at Cape Elizabeth.  It is as picturesque as the many paintings that are EVERYWHERE.  There we said good bye to Glenn and Pat Kelly and they began their drive home.  They hope to make it to Pennsylvania tonight. 


We then began caravanning with the Wassums toward Bar Harbor....









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Monday, June 16, 2014

BOSTON and THE WEDDING

We arrived at our campground SW of Boston on Wednesday night and  it was our first campsite NOT on the water, but one of the nicest we've ever stayed at.  There were many activities there, but unfortunately it was a “stop and drop”.  We also discovered that it was right by Gillette Stadium in Foxborough where the Patriots play.  That stadium was really interesting.  Much of the parking was across a 4 lane divided highway and surrounding the stadium was an outlet mall!!  I guess if the wives don’t want to go to the game…. Mmmm not a bad idea!!   After the obligatory laundry, we settled into steaks around a campfire and needed it as the temperature had dropped significantly.  In fact in the middle of the night Dave was setting up our heater and digging out blankets.  We needed the air conditioner and the heater in the same day!  I understand that SC and NC have been having their notorious high summer temperatures…. Eat your heart out!!
Moon over our campfire in Foxborough


Up early on Thursday, we got Bessy to her RV Doctor appointment.  When we picked her up Friday afternoon, her brakes were fixed, but the gear cable is still a gear or so off, as it shows on the indicator.  David is planning his “Come to Jesus” meeting with the mechanic in Charlotte.

Going on the Duck Tour
Then we got into the Brookline neighborhood of Boston and got our bearings.  We delivered the wine for the wedding parties and ate lunch with Keith and Diane and his brother Forest and Sherrie.  Brunch at the Zaftigs was terrific, especially with good friends.  We left the Wassums to wedding and family chores and checked into the Longwood Inn where we met up with the O’Rourkes and Browns.  We decided to conquer the T and go downtown.  The Duck Boat caught our fancy and we were able to get tickets without any problems. (Those who left it for Friday and Saturday found it booked or only available at limited times and places.)  Our driver was good (not great), but it gave us a great overview of Boston and his suggestion to end the tour with drinks on the 52nd floor of the Prudential Building was spot on.  We truly enjoyed the views of the city as the sun was setting and lights were coming on, not to mention the amazing appetizers which became our supper!! Back in Brookline, we partied in Keith and Diane’s “penthouse suite” until the wee hours of the morning.
At the top of the Prudential Building

Partying in the Wassum's pent house!


Friday, our only wedding commitment was the rehearsal party that night, so we were free to sightsee.  After breakfast at “the best Jewish Bagel shop in Boston”, Dave and I decided to go into the Museum of Fine Arts and see a special quilt exhibit we had seen advertized on the T.  It was amazing!! Most of the quilts were from about 1820 – 1920 and were collected as pieces of art.  The fine stitching (one Log Cabin quilt had strips that finished out at less than ¼ inch!) and use of color and unusual techniques fascinated Deb and made her think of her friend Kasey who quilts.  One quilt was made with a santine cotton that actually changed color in the light as you moved around it.  There was a log cabin quilt that was built on an octagon instead of a square, 3-D quilts made with spirals, and a feather pattern that had over 500 1 ½ inch squares divided into  2 triangles just to outline the feather pattern!!  The pictures do not do the quilts justice!! 
This spiral was 3D

Each block was SO small!

An octagonal Log Cabin


Note how the grays change!

I didn't mention the Chihuly, 'but of course it caught my attention!

That night we got to meet Sam’s parents, their friends, Sam’s brother, the Lutheran pastor and many young people who gathered at Sam’s favorite bar to wish him well.  As the festivities were winding down, we decided to go out to supper with the Bostains and find a quieter venue.  We chose a restaurant in a nearby hotel, thinking it would be quiet, and there was a singer/guitar player with a very loud amp playing very bad cover songs from the 70’s!!   Then it was back to the suite for more fun with the Wassum family.  By now all of Allie’s cousins had gotten in by now and the crowd was much younger.
The Kelly's on their way to the Rehearsal Party!  May Sam and Allie's marriage last this long and well!

After 2 days of late night partying, we laid low on Saturday.  I shopped some of the shops I had passed several times in Brookline and after lunch we tried to ride our Segways down to Quincy Market and Faneuil Hall.  We got about ¾ of the way there and realized that we had not charged the batteries up since our long ride around NY Harbor, so we had to turn around. 

The bus picked us up at the Hotel at 5 to go out to the wedding which was at the Endicott Estate in Dedham.  The setting was absolutely beautiful and was only enhanced by Allie as a radiant bride.  Her dress was breath taking (and Kate reported they needed a diagram to fix the bustle for the reception!! LOL) and Keith and Diane were beaming. The little town was having a Flag Day parade that went right by during the ceremony.  Allie, they even had a parade for you!!  Keith really treated us right, having the waiters pour the NC tables (there were 14 of us there!!) wine from his cellar which we had transported up in the RV!!  Allie and Sam set the tone for the reception with a special first dance that included a waltz, tango, and special choreography!  We danced and watched the young people REALLY dance until the last bus left to go back to Boston at 11 p.m.   Dave’s GPS skills saved the day when the bus driver’s went out!  He also was one of the best dressed men at the wedding!!






Sunday we got our segway ride in and in doing so discovered a bicycle path to get to Quincy market that took us along the Charles River and right by the band shell where the Pops  play.  We thought of Sharon and Richard and their honeymoon several times! 



I have written this through Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and we just came into Maine and are already seeing lobster shacks on US 1, the scenic highway.  We hope to set up camp before dark and then ride into Portland and meet the Kelly’s for supper…


Stay tuned….